kalashnik_v (kalashnik_v) wrote,

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"Classic" Lolita Cutsew - Tutorial

Alright! This didn't came out exactly as I had hoped - unfortunately for me, this sweater was quite worn and didn't stretch so much anymore :/ But I think that it came out quite cute! It still needs some ironing tho - some HEAVY ironing, you wouldn't believe the resistance that lace is putting up! Please, when making yours, make sure that the knit you are using stretches well!

So, let's get started! Materials:

Pattern Drafting:
  • Pen
  • Paper
  • Fitting Bodice Block
  • Measuring Tape
Actual Sewing
  • Jersey/Knit (or an old sweater!)
  • Some nice fabric for the bib
  • Lace (lots, in my case)
  • Some Ribbon
  • Your sewing machine of choice
  • Pins!
  • Iron and iron-board
Alright! First, my materials:


Let's start! First, you want to trace your bodice pattern in a new paper.


Now, draw your new bib's shape!


Great! Now, trace this on to another paper.


Place this paper against the back of the bodice by the shoulder seam and draw the rest of the bib.


Trace that too. Now you have two beautiful pattern pieces! You might stop here if you want, but I wanted pintucks for mine, so I'll show you how to re-draw the pattern to include pintucks.


First, draw the lines where you want the pintucks to go and cut the pattern by those lines.


Tape the first part of the pattern to a paper, measure 3cm (mark cm0, cm1.5 and cm3), and tape the next pattern piece on the paper there to meet this line. Tada! Pintuck pattern :D




Now your bib pattern should look like this:


Alright! For the collar drafting now! First, measure this distance (I traced a line and measured that)


Awesome, now double that (15,2cmx2 in my case), add some more for the button if you want. Draw a rectangle with that lenght and, aprox, 4-6cm width. That's your collar! Shape the edges if you want and divide it in 6 parts.


Cut the six parts and tape them slightly overlapped by the top edges like this: (Yes, I had to add some more for my button X_D)


Your Three pattern pieces!


Now cut those pieces (two times each), and all the ruffles you'll need too! Start making the pintucks, first you pin them with pins (ha!) and then, BEFORE sewing, iron them. Then, you sew. First, IRON. Always iron pintucks before sewing! (Unless you are making them with un-ironable fabric, that is x_D)



Here you can see the finished bib put together with some pretty lace sewn on. 


Now for the collar: First, if you are making a ruffle, pin that (right sides together and downside) to one of the collar pieces, and sew it so it stays in place. Now, with the right sides all facing inside, sandwich the ruffle between with the other collar piece. Sew around, and turn out.


Place the collar (turned out and ironed) in the bib and sew it.


Make your cutsew out of jersey fabric (I didn't take pics of this part, but pretty much, if you're using an old garment, fit it and re-shape it if necessary, if using fabric, draw around one of your t-shirts for the pattern, etc.)


Attach the bib to the cutsew (I did this by pinning it while I was wearing the cutsew), put a nice ruffle/other kind of finishing trim) to hide the ugly seams, sew some buttons and your closure of choice, and you're done!


And the horrible pic of how I look in it is under the cut :D I'm fixing the fit of the ruffled cuffs right now!


Anyway, I learned a lot while making this little thing - Like always measure twice, cut once, and such :) It doesn't look exactly like I wanted it too, but still looks pretty good, or that's what I think. Anyway, I hope you like it and enjoy the tutorial! Hopefully I'll post a better pic soon ;) Please, show me if you did something with this tutorial - I'd love to see it!
Tags: cutsew, tutorial

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