?

Log in

No account? Create an account

Previous Entry | Next Entry

"Classic" Lolita Cutsew - Tutorial

Alright! This didn't came out exactly as I had hoped - unfortunately for me, this sweater was quite worn and didn't stretch so much anymore :/ But I think that it came out quite cute! It still needs some ironing tho - some HEAVY ironing, you wouldn't believe the resistance that lace is putting up! Please, when making yours, make sure that the knit you are using stretches well!

So, let's get started! Materials:

Pattern Drafting:
  • Pen
  • Paper
  • Fitting Bodice Block
  • Measuring Tape
Actual Sewing
  • Jersey/Knit (or an old sweater!)
  • Some nice fabric for the bib
  • Lace (lots, in my case)
  • Some Ribbon
  • Your sewing machine of choice
  • Pins!
  • Iron and iron-board
Alright! First, my materials:

materiales2

Let's start! First, you want to trace your bodice pattern in a new paper.

1

Now, draw your new bib's shape!

2

Great! Now, trace this on to another paper.

3

Place this paper against the back of the bodice by the shoulder seam and draw the rest of the bib.

4

Trace that too. Now you have two beautiful pattern pieces! You might stop here if you want, but I wanted pintucks for mine, so I'll show you how to re-draw the pattern to include pintucks.

5

First, draw the lines where you want the pintucks to go and cut the pattern by those lines.

7

Tape the first part of the pattern to a paper, measure 3cm (mark cm0, cm1.5 and cm3), and tape the next pattern piece on the paper there to meet this line. Tada! Pintuck pattern :D

8

See? 

9

Now your bib pattern should look like this:

10

Alright! For the collar drafting now! First, measure this distance (I traced a line and measured that)

11

Awesome, now double that (15,2cmx2 in my case), add some more for the button if you want. Draw a rectangle with that lenght and, aprox, 4-6cm width. That's your collar! Shape the edges if you want and divide it in 6 parts.

12

Cut the six parts and tape them slightly overlapped by the top edges like this: (Yes, I had to add some more for my button X_D)

13

Your Three pattern pieces!

14

Now cut those pieces (two times each), and all the ruffles you'll need too! Start making the pintucks, first you pin them with pins (ha!) and then, BEFORE sewing, iron them. Then, you sew. First, IRON. Always iron pintucks before sewing! (Unless you are making them with un-ironable fabric, that is x_D)

15

16

Here you can see the finished bib put together with some pretty lace sewn on. 

17

Now for the collar: First, if you are making a ruffle, pin that (right sides together and downside) to one of the collar pieces, and sew it so it stays in place. Now, with the right sides all facing inside, sandwich the ruffle between with the other collar piece. Sew around, and turn out.

18

Place the collar (turned out and ironed) in the bib and sew it.

19

Make your cutsew out of jersey fabric (I didn't take pics of this part, but pretty much, if you're using an old garment, fit it and re-shape it if necessary, if using fabric, draw around one of your t-shirts for the pattern, etc.)

20

Attach the bib to the cutsew (I did this by pinning it while I was wearing the cutsew), put a nice ruffle/other kind of finishing trim) to hide the ugly seams, sew some buttons and your closure of choice, and you're done!

final

And the horrible pic of how I look in it is under the cut :D I'm fixing the fit of the ruffled cuffs right now!



fugly



Anyway, I learned a lot while making this little thing - Like always measure twice, cut once, and such :) It doesn't look exactly like I wanted it too, but still looks pretty good, or that's what I think. Anyway, I hope you like it and enjoy the tutorial! Hopefully I'll post a better pic soon ;) Please, show me if you did something with this tutorial - I'd love to see it!

Comments

( 13 comments — Leave a comment )
rolicherry
Feb. 11th, 2013 12:51 am (UTC)
Awesome! Love this, it looks so easy to follow :D
kalashnik_v
Feb. 11th, 2013 10:29 am (UTC)
Thank you!! I hope someone makes something pretty with it :P
rolicherry
Feb. 11th, 2013 12:16 pm (UTC)
I intende to! ...when I've gotten through my GIGANTIC sewing to-do list :p
kalashnik_v
Feb. 11th, 2013 12:18 pm (UTC)
Weee! That's great! What is in your to-do list? :O I published mine in tumblr yesterday, maybe I should post it here too!
rolicherry
Feb. 20th, 2013 04:39 am (UTC)
Post your to-do list! Lol, I am actually starting an indie brand, mostly stocking at a nearby handmade/vintage store so I'm working/procrastinating on the skirts and JSKs for that mostly, as well as working on some boleros for me and a sexy barbarian loincloth in faux fur and leather for an upcoming photography workshop. So a very mixed bag of to-dos :)
riechanster
Mar. 23rd, 2013 10:46 pm (UTC)
thankyou very much for the tutorial!
I made the pattern for a regular bib and a pintucked bib (still need to do the collar and the backside for that one though)
Hope it works out!
kalashnik_v
Jan. 17th, 2014 02:54 pm (UTC)
Oh my! Sorry for not replying to this! Did it turn out ok?
riechanster
Jan. 17th, 2014 02:57 pm (UTC)
No problem haha :D Thankyou for answering after all this time ^^
Well I still haven't finished it haha ^^' I'll let u know when it's finished haha ;D
kalashnik_v
Jan. 17th, 2014 03:14 pm (UTC)
Yes, please do! Also, if you are specially interested in one particular kind of tutorial (JSKs, more accesories) or need some help, let me know! :D
riechanster
Jan. 17th, 2014 09:06 pm (UTC)
Ah, a jsk tutorial would be great :D!
kalashnik_v
Jan. 17th, 2014 09:44 pm (UTC)
One that has a waist seam (separated bodice and skirt pieces) or one with a princess pattern?
riechanster
Jan. 17th, 2014 09:47 pm (UTC)
ah uhmm I tried making one with a princess pattern before but it wasn't poofy enough ^^' So perhaps one with a princess cut?
kalashnik_v
Jan. 17th, 2014 09:48 pm (UTC)
I had one tutorial on my tumblr (I'm not sure if in here too :/) that explained how to do the pattern. Perhaps I'll revisit it and try to finally make something out of that pattern! :)
( 13 comments — Leave a comment )

Profile

kalashnik_v
kalashnik_v

Latest Month

January 2014
S M T W T F S
   1234
567891011
12131415161718
19202122232425
262728293031 
Powered by LiveJournal.com