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Happy New Year!

Yay! I'm writing here again! I can't believe it. Anyway, it's been a very busy 2013 ending for me! I've started taking an Illustration course and I'm also studying the first year of the History of Art degree. Talk about busy! Plus, this next week exams will start! OMG! I'm super stressed.

With all this happening, I haven't found the time to keep sewing or doing tutorials, but I promise I will try to do some more! I want to try more cutsew and hoodie reconstructions, and I plan to post the JSKs and skirts that I made in the summer. So stay tuned for that! I also want to try and make some kind of downloadable PDF pattern for a simple JSK, but we will see! I have a couple of Blythe Cons I'm going to as a vendor this year, so I won't have a lot of time!

My sewing machine broke last summer, and I've just recently bought a new one. It's a Singer Simplicity, I believe, and I hope we can get along together! It's heavy and has an inner metal structure so I'm pretty happy about that, but I honestly haven't found the time to try and sew with her :_(

My lolita wardrobe expanded a bit over this summer with the few pieces I made, and it's expanding a tiny bit more with an order I made to Bodyline recently. I had to order some white bloomers and a friend needed shoes, and I casually saw a dress that didn't look very bad, and since I'm still feeling this "old school" vibe, and it was so pretty! I decided to try. Also, it was 15€ all of sudden! I will never understand how bodyline changes their prices. I looked for reviews and the blue version didn't look that bad, honestly. But I got the pink one, because I've got the sudden urge to wear LOTS of pink. Oh well! Anyway, if it turns to be an ugly lace monster I won't have lost much! If you're curious, it's this awful looking thing here: http://www.bodyline.co.jp/bodyline/showAll.asp?type=lolita Fortunately enough, I found a pic on the sales comm, but it's the blue colorway: http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/sweetlolilacey/57729159/537/537_600.png The pic belongs to sweetlolitalacey. I wouldn't say it's exactly old school style, but I fell in love with the skirt and the bodice! I honestly feel it lacks something in the waist seam, and I'm not sure about how it will sit on me. Oh well! We will see.

As for this year's lolita resolutions, I plan to take "control" of my wardrobe. Yeah. Not an easy task, I know. I want to include at least one original old school piece, preferably either blackxwhite or pinkxwhite, perhaps redxwhite, and also I will start getting more basic items like blouses and cardigans, and some cutsews too. As for "big pieces", I intend to purchase some JSKs and make some more JSKs and maybe even OPs! I will be focusing in Classic and Sweet, but I feel that I won't be able to persuade myself from including some Gothic in the wardrobe. Oh well. And shoes. I need more shoes! And headwear. But we will see.

Also! My hair is now pink. Bright pink! I'm very happy with it, it looks like a giant cotton candy ball because of my curls. Yayyyy! I'll dye it black as soon as my roots start showing, though, I'm extremely lazy about retouching roots :P

Well, this is all for now, folks! Enjoy yourselves until the next entry! ^0^

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Still Alive

Yep! And soon I'll be back with tutorials and ideas for y'all, sweethearts. Sorry for the long hiatus, it's been some complicated months ;)
So, dirty&thrifty tutorial!

IMG_5404

Materials:
I'll explain this first and then leave you with the diagram! Measure your waist first. I'll use my measurement, 70cm, as an example. Great. You want 4 times your waist measurement for the first tier, and 8 times that for the second one. If you want to make a three tier petti, you can either make the third tier 12 or 16 times your waist. This petticoat is 45cm long, so for a two-tiered one you need one 15cm and one 30cm wide strips (three 15cm wide strips if you are making a three tiered one). Awesome! The ikea curtains are 3m wide, so bearing that in mind, cut your stripes (for example, I cut one 15cm stripe and two 30cm's. If I were to make a three-tiered petti, I'd cut seven 15cm strips). You will probably have leftover fabric, and if you need more, you can always use the other curtain! I had like 30% of the fabric left after I made my petti.
Well! Now join your strips to make the tiers (sew together the two 30cm/ two 15cm and four 15cm strips to make one/two long stripes!), and serge/run a zigzag stich on the lower border of the bigger strip. Awesomesauce!
Now for the not-so-fun part: gathering. You have to gather the third stripe to fit the second one, stich those together (do this by putting them right sides together, like when attaching a ruffle), and then gather and attach the second one to the first tier. Great! We're taking advantage of how this curtains are sewn: they have a small chanel on both sides. Since you cut your first tier from this part, you've already got your chanel sewn for you! (If you needed more than one strip for your first tier, cut it from the other side of the curtain, and make a couple of holes near the joining seam so you can feed the elastic through). Now you just feed the elastic, sew both parts together in order to make a skirt, and you've got your petticoat done!!

petti

This turned out to be a very soft petticoat! I made mine two-tiered, so is not super puffy, but I'll get some more ikea curtains and make a three tiered one soon :O I'm sure that way it will give a lot of puff!

Tutorial: High-waist skirt!

So, no actual pictures for this, but I'll be dumping them later :D So, material list:
  • Our OP princess seam pattern
  • Paper
  • Fabric (I used 180cm x 150cm wide black fabric, but I didn't line my skirt)
  • Sturdy fabric to make the waist stand up (around 50cm will do)
  • Eyelet-lace / Something with holes to make the back corset closure
  • Pins!
  • Needle and thread (this is for gathering the ruffle)
Alright, first thing first. Mark on the original pattern where you want your skirt to start, and then trace around so you have 4 pieces for your skirt. Right. If you want to add a ruffle at the hem, cut a 13cm piece from the lower part of the pattern. Now, since this is going to have a corset closure, add the difference between your hips and waist measurement (In my case, 94-69 = 25) to the back piece. An easy way to do this is, once you have placed your pattern pieces on your fabric, move the back piece half the difference (25/2 = 12,5 cm) away, and trace around :D Diagram!

Untitled-12

Awesome. Now, cut your pieces (double, in case you were wondering!) and your ruffle (you'll need a 13cm x 2-4 times the flare of your skirt rectangle, I cut four pieces that were 13x150, and sewed them together to make a big ruffle!). Alright! Now, in your sturdy fabric, you are going to mark the top part (this ends when the patterns starts to flare) of the front and sides pieces, and cut them too. For the back part, take your already cut piece, and mark around it in your skirt fabric (again, only the top part), NOT the sturdy fabric, or you won't be able to close the skirt with a corset lacing due to the sturdiness! Great! Pin those together and sew them, just like if you were making a corset.
For the actual skirt, take your corset closure, and pin it to the back piece (right sides together). Run a basting stitch to secure it in place, and pin the rest of the pieces together. Sew. Diagram!

Untitled-1

We're almost there! Now, attach the sturdy part to the upper part of your skirt, right sides together. Do the same to the ruffle and sew. Topstich the upper part if you want, try it on, and you are DONE!!

Untitled-12 copy

I promise pictures will come later!!

Tutorial: Sailor Cutsew (Arrr!)

This tutorial includes some easy instructions for beginners (like how to attach sleeves, or how to gather them at the "cuff" part :D). You can adapt this to almost any cutsew you want to make, however, keep in mind that if you don't have a sailor collar sweater/thing to start with, either you'll have to make one in order to make a sailor collar or make a different kind of cutsew.

So, materials:
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Needle&Thread
  • Elastic
  • Fabric/Lace
  • Some cute buttons
  • Ribbon
Let's start! First, you want to try your existent sweater/t-shirt on you (wrong side out), and pin along your figure, in order to make it fitter. Don't forget to pin where your arms start! This way you can make the sleeve cut :D Take it off, and still wrong side out, cut along the pins (leave some seam allowance). You can also use an existing t-shirt you like the fit of to trace onto the sweater to do this part, btw. You should have something like this now:

IMG_5380

Now, you want to sew along those borders (I did this first by hand, tried it on me, and then sewed it with my sewing machine). Alright! Now, the sleeves :D Here is a diagram, hopefully you can understand it! You start with the sleeve (wrong side out), and all you have to do is, taking advantage of the channel that is usually made when sewing the hem of the t-shirt sleeves, poke two holes and feed the elastic (measure it first to make sure it will fit your arm well) through it. Stich it and you are done! Ruffled sleeve :D

rufflesleeve

Awesomesauce, isn't it? Now, you have to attach the sleeves. I made another diagram to show you. What you do is, with the main piece wrong side out, and the sleeve right side out, put the sleeve inside the main piece and sew along the border (I gathered the ruffle a bit on the top). Also, you may want to add a little ruffle/pleated part to the lower part of your cutsew (I used pleats because I didn't have enough fabric left to make a ruffle. Also, I hate making ruffles.), I did a diagram on that too :)

sleevesruffles

Yay! We're almost there. In fact, you can stop here, but since my cutsew was showing way too much skin, I added some lace to the front. Also, I sewed ribbon to the sailor collar so it looked more "sailor-ish". And since I was feeling a bit punk or something, I made a ribbon with a skull and added two small ribbons with bones to the back part of the collar :D I hope you like it!

IMG_5400
IMG_5402

"Classic" Lolita Cutsew - Tutorial

Alright! This didn't came out exactly as I had hoped - unfortunately for me, this sweater was quite worn and didn't stretch so much anymore :/ But I think that it came out quite cute! It still needs some ironing tho - some HEAVY ironing, you wouldn't believe the resistance that lace is putting up! Please, when making yours, make sure that the knit you are using stretches well!

So, let's get started! Materials:

Pattern Drafting:
  • Pen
  • Paper
  • Fitting Bodice Block
  • Measuring Tape
Actual Sewing
  • Jersey/Knit (or an old sweater!)
  • Some nice fabric for the bib
  • Lace (lots, in my case)
  • Some Ribbon
  • Your sewing machine of choice
  • Pins!
  • Iron and iron-board
Alright! First, my materials:

materiales2

Let's start! First, you want to trace your bodice pattern in a new paper.

1

Now, draw your new bib's shape!

2

Great! Now, trace this on to another paper.

3

Place this paper against the back of the bodice by the shoulder seam and draw the rest of the bib.

4

Trace that too. Now you have two beautiful pattern pieces! You might stop here if you want, but I wanted pintucks for mine, so I'll show you how to re-draw the pattern to include pintucks.

5

First, draw the lines where you want the pintucks to go and cut the pattern by those lines.

7

Tape the first part of the pattern to a paper, measure 3cm (mark cm0, cm1.5 and cm3), and tape the next pattern piece on the paper there to meet this line. Tada! Pintuck pattern :D

8

See? 

9

Now your bib pattern should look like this:

10

Alright! For the collar drafting now! First, measure this distance (I traced a line and measured that)

11

Awesome, now double that (15,2cmx2 in my case), add some more for the button if you want. Draw a rectangle with that lenght and, aprox, 4-6cm width. That's your collar! Shape the edges if you want and divide it in 6 parts.

12

Cut the six parts and tape them slightly overlapped by the top edges like this: (Yes, I had to add some more for my button X_D)

13

Your Three pattern pieces!

14

Now cut those pieces (two times each), and all the ruffles you'll need too! Start making the pintucks, first you pin them with pins (ha!) and then, BEFORE sewing, iron them. Then, you sew. First, IRON. Always iron pintucks before sewing! (Unless you are making them with un-ironable fabric, that is x_D)

15

16

Here you can see the finished bib put together with some pretty lace sewn on. 

17

Now for the collar: First, if you are making a ruffle, pin that (right sides together and downside) to one of the collar pieces, and sew it so it stays in place. Now, with the right sides all facing inside, sandwich the ruffle between with the other collar piece. Sew around, and turn out.

18

Place the collar (turned out and ironed) in the bib and sew it.

19

Make your cutsew out of jersey fabric (I didn't take pics of this part, but pretty much, if you're using an old garment, fit it and re-shape it if necessary, if using fabric, draw around one of your t-shirts for the pattern, etc.)

20

Attach the bib to the cutsew (I did this by pinning it while I was wearing the cutsew), put a nice ruffle/other kind of finishing trim) to hide the ugly seams, sew some buttons and your closure of choice, and you're done!

final

And the horrible pic of how I look in it is under the cut :D I'm fixing the fit of the ruffled cuffs right now!

PicCollapse )

Anyway, I learned a lot while making this little thing - Like always measure twice, cut once, and such :) It doesn't look exactly like I wanted it too, but still looks pretty good, or that's what I think. Anyway, I hope you like it and enjoy the tutorial! Hopefully I'll post a better pic soon ;) Please, show me if you did something with this tutorial - I'd love to see it!
OPTitle

Yes, that's the idea! Right now, I've only made the pattern - and probably you won't see me sewing this in a couple of weeks - but I thought that maybe someone would need guidance with making an OP and drafting the pattern? Anyway, here we go!



You need:

A ruler
A square
A pencil
A pen
A measuring tape
Lots of paper and tape or big papers :D Either way will work, I promise!
Someone to take your measurements ;)
Alright! First things first: Measure yourself: Bust, hip, waist, arm (around), lenght of final sleeve, lenght (aprox) of puffy part of sleeve, lenght of the skirt, waist to hip, neck (measure a t-shirt, not your neck! Either that or measure loosely!)

Now, on with the pattern! First, you want to draw a fitted bodice pattern block, and here's a little tutorial - it's very easy to follow, don't be scared :) I don't use a french curve or a plate, I just do my curves by hand but a plate is advised!

Alright, when you are finished with that (it might take you a little while! Make sure to make it on cardboard or something a bit durable, you'll be able to use this block later when you need a pattern base for some other thing!), I want you to follow this tutorial... moreless. I want you to:
  • Resize the front neck so it falls a bit lower (make the curve end around two or three cm lower on the front part)
  • DON'T shape the neckline like he does - Unless you want a wide, square neck OP, that is. No matter what kind of collar you want, you don't want that kind of reshaping!
  • For flaring: I just added 23cm on each opening. Lots, I know. May have to correct that later!
  • On the back piece: Add a small rectangle that goes from the neck to the waistline, and is about 3-5cm wide - this is for your buttons! If you're using other fastening methods (like a shirring panel, or maybe a zipper) adapt it to your needs.
We're almost there! Only one more little tutorial to draft a sleeve block :) Once you're done with that, grab some more paper and your trusty scissors for this:

sleeve

The steps are easy:

  • Cut the lenght of the puffy part of the sleeve
  • Divide it into 6 equal portions, and cut those just like you did with the dress, until you almost tear the piece apart.
  • Make the flare by "sliding" them - I did 5cm in mine :)
  • Make the cuff! That's just simply a rectangle :) The lenght should be your arm (around) measurement plus 5-6cm for ease and 2-3cm for putting some buttons, and the width would be the lenght of that part x 2. So, to make it easier: lenght=arm+5cm+2cm and width=lenght of whole sleeve - puffy part x2

Well that was easy, wasn't it? :P Now, in order to finish our pattern, we should draft the collar. You can draft any shape you want, just remember that this kind of collar will be sitting flat on the dress and not standing up!

collar



  • As you can see, you put the back and front (not sides) pieces together by the shoulder "seams", with a 2cm overlap. (The picture overlapping is not correct :_D You have to overlap the shoulders
  • Then, you trace the shape in yet another paper, and draw your pretty collar!

Hopefully this has been clear enough until now! I know that pattern making is dead-boring... I promise some more juicy (like a couple of ugly jerseys being made into cutsews) soon! ;)



What on earth is this, girl?

This is the result of my new year resolutions: I wanted to dress lolita again, and I wanted to use aaaaaaaaaaaaall the fabrics I've got laying around and wasting space. So here I am! Due to a series of unfortunate events, I lost my lolita wardrobe (not that it was super large, anyway, but I miss my petticoats and bloomers the most!), the only thing I still own are some socks (and are not very pretty anyway). Right now, I've got no money to "waste" on pretty things (such as lolita clothing), but that won't keep me from making some awesome stuff!

Knowing (or hoping!) that there are more people like me, I want to turn this project into a series of tutorials :) Hopefully that will help some other budget lolitas to make their way to a beautiful and variated wardrobe!

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